AI-Generated Models in Vogue: Implications for Beauty Standards

In a groundbreaking move, Vogue has featured an AI-generated model in an advertisement for Guess in its August 2023 issue, sparking intense debate over the implications for beauty standards in the fashion industry. The advertisement showcases a strikingly lifelike blonde model adorned in a striped maxi dress and floral playsuit. Notably, the small print discloses the model's AI origins, marking a first for the venerable publication.

The decision to use AI in modeling has ignited discussions about its impact on real models and the pursuit of diversity in fashion. Felicity Hayward, a prominent plus-size model with over a decade of experience in the industry, criticized the move as "lazy and cheap," suggesting that it undermines years of progress towards inclusivity. "This feels like a kick in the teeth for models who have fought for representation," she stated, emphasizing concerns that AI models may exacerbate unrealistic beauty standards.

The creators behind the AI model, Valentina Gonzalez and Andreea Petrescu of Seraphinne Vallora, argue that their work does not reinforce narrow beauty ideals. "We don’t create unattainable looks; actually, the AI model for Guess looks quite realistic," Petrescu claimed. However, they admitted that their past AI images often lacked diversity, acknowledging that posts featuring diverse models failed to garner traction online. "At the end of the day, we are a business and use images that will create a conversation and bring us clients," Gonzalez explained.

Hayward's concerns reflect a broader sentiment among industry professionals. The historical context of fashion has seen gradual strides towards inclusivity, with milestones such as Valentina Sampaio becoming the first openly trans model for Victoria’s Secret and Halima Aden breaking barriers as the first hijab-wearing model in global campaigns. However, Hayward believes that recent trends indicate a regression, particularly with the rise of AI models, which she fears could disproportionately affect plus-size and diverse models.

Vanessa Longley, CEO of the eating disorder charity Beat, echoed these sentiments, warning that exposure to unrealistic AI-generated imagery could negatively influence body image and mental health. "If people are exposed to images of unrealistic bodies, it can affect their thoughts about their own body, and poor body image increases the risk of developing an eating disorder," she stated.

Compounding these issues is the lack of regulatory requirements for labeling AI-generated content in the UK. While the Guess advertisement does include a disclaimer about the AI origins of the model, the subtlety of this label risks being overlooked by consumers. Sinead Bovell, a former model and technology entrepreneur, criticized this lack of transparency as "exceptionally problematic," asserting that it could lead to further erosion of realistic beauty standards in society.

Sara Ziff, founder of Model Alliance, highlighted the potential impact on fashion industry workers. While she acknowledges that AI can enhance efficiency, she warned that it could also lead to job losses if companies opt for AI models over human ones. Ziff stated, "AI can positively impact the industry, but there need to be meaningful protections for workers."

Despite the controversy, Gonzalez and Petrescu maintain that their AI technology is meant to supplement, not replace traditional modeling. "We’re offering companies another choice in how they market a product," Petrescu reiterated. They also mentioned that their process still involves hiring real models for certain aspects of the campaign, though they recognize that their services can significantly reduce costs for brands.

Looking forward, the use of AI in modeling appears poised to grow. Gonzalez and Petrescu believe that as technology advances, demand for AI-generated models will increase. Contrastingly, Bovell warns of a potential backlash against AI models, suggesting that consumers may eventually seek authenticity over artificiality. "We may get to a stage where society opts out, and not being interested in AI models because it’s so unattainable and we know it’s not real," she posited.

As the fashion industry grapples with balancing innovation and authenticity, the introduction of AI-generated models in prominent publications like Vogue raises critical questions about the future of beauty standards. The implications of this technological shift are far-reaching, not only affecting models and brands but also impacting consumer perceptions and mental health globally. The debate surrounding AI in fashion is likely to intensify as the industry continues to evolve, highlighting the need for thoughtful discourse on the intersection of technology and societal values.