David Koma's Berlin Show: A Strategic Move for Menswear

David Koma, the acclaimed Georgian-born fashion designer, is set to present his menswear collection during Berlin Fashion Week, marking a significant milestone in his career. This decision comes as Koma juggles his responsibilities as the creative director of Italian label Blumarine and his own eponymous brand. The Berlin show, part of the Fashion Council Germany’s Berlin Contemporary initiative, is supported by a €25,000 grant, which underscores the importance of this event in the fashion calendar.

Koma's entry into menswear is described by him as a "selfish" project, intended to allow him to explore new creative avenues while focusing on his personal enjoyment as a designer. "For the first time, I've had myself in mind as a customer," Koma stated, expressing his excitement for the new direction. This marks his first menswear show after designing menswear for three seasons, a move he felt was timely and necessary for his brand's growth.

The invitation to present in Berlin arrived a few months ago through Reference Studios, a public relations agency that has facilitated Koma’s involvement in the Berlin Contemporary showcase, which also features other emerging designers such as GmbH and Ottolinger. Koma elaborated on his long-standing affinity for Berlin, citing its vibrant culture and the presence of many Berlin-based individuals within his team. "I’ve always loved Berlin; it’s one of my favourite cities," Koma remarked.

Germany represents a crucial market for Koma’s brand, accounting for 21% of wholesale sales, primarily driven by partnerships with luxury retailers such as Mytheresa. Despite the brand's rapid growth, Koma has opted not to disclose specific revenue figures as they seek additional investment to scale both menswear and womenswear lines.

Koma, who launched his brand in London in 2009 after graduating from Central Saint Martins, has attracted a celebrity following, with notable figures including Beyoncé and Rihanna endorsing his designs. His recent appointment as creative director of Blumarine in July 2024 has been met with enthusiasm, particularly for his innovative reinterpretation of the brand's heritage.

The upcoming collection, titled 'I Love David,' draws inspiration from Michelangelo's sculptures and British football star David Beckham, reflecting Koma's intent to explore various masculinities and identities. "I wanted to have fun and to explore different masculinities and identities," Koma emphasized.

Mumi Haiati, CEO of Reference Studios, highlighted the strategic importance of Berlin as a cultural nexus, noting that it serves as a gateway to Eastern markets, aligning with Koma's Georgian roots. "Berlin carries the creative energy that has defined London, so there couldn’t be a better choice for his debut menswear show," Haiati remarked.

While the first two menswear collections will be sold directly to consumers, Koma plans to expand to wholesale partnerships in the future. This approach aligns with his current business model for womenswear, which relies heavily on wholesale sales.

As Koma balances his growing portfolio, he acknowledges the challenges of managing multiple brands. "There’s never an issue with the creative side or ideas; it’s about handling the teams that support all those projects," Koma explained. Looking ahead, he plans to celebrate his brand’s 15th anniversary in London after the Berlin show, while also preparing for the upcoming Milan Fashion Week where his Blumarine collection will be showcased.

Koma's foray into menswear not only signifies a personal ambition but also reflects broader trends in fashion where designers expand their offerings to engage diverse customer bases. As Koma continues to navigate these challenges, his ability to balance creativity with commercial viability will be crucial for his brands’ growth in the competitive fashion landscape.