Fashion Reimagined: Glenn Martens' Debut at Maison Margiela

On July 10, 2025, Glenn Martens unveiled his inaugural collection as the creative director of Maison Margiela during a highly anticipated fashion show in Paris, marking a significant moment in the fashion industry. Attendees, including prominent figures such as Renzo Rosso, Carine Roitfeld, and Suzy Menkes, provided immediate reactions to the collection that blended nostalgia with contemporary themes.

Martens, who has successfully led Diesel since 2020, has garnered acclaim for revitalizing the brand, increasing its sales by 13% in 2023 and 3.2% in 2024, despite a broader industry downturn. According to Renzo Rosso, founder of OTB (the parent company of Maison Margiela), Martens’ vision was essential to ushering in a new era for the storied fashion house. Rosso stated, “I needed to give Margiela a new era... we remain focused on creativity.”

The collection drew parallels to the house’s founder, Martin Margiela, whose influence was evident in the show’s presentation style and thematic elements. Like Margiela, Martens also graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and began his career at Jean Paul Gaultier. Both designers utilized masks in their shows; however, Martens’ interpretation was infused with modernity, reflecting current societal sentiments.

Attendees were captivated by the emotional depth of the collection, with Carine Roitfeld expressing, “After this show, we like fashion again.” She emphasized the contrasting feelings of fear and joy that were conveyed through the collection, which featured a mix of thrifted fabrics, draped metallics, and dynamic accessories.

David Martin, editor-in-chief of Odda magazine, remarked on the collection’s emotional resonance, stating, “It felt vulnerable and like a move towards liberation.” Judd Crane, executive director of buying and brand at Selfridges, praised Martens’ ability to create an impactful first impression, noting the delicate balance between rebellion and elegance in the designs.

The event not only showcased Martens’ vision but also highlighted the evolving landscape of fashion in a post-pandemic world. The interplay of contemporary and archival elements signaled a shift towards a more liberated and diverse representation in fashion. As the world continues to grapple with its collective experiences, Martens’ debut serves as a beacon of hope and creativity.

Looking forward, industry experts anticipate the potential for Martens to further redefine Maison Margiela’s identity while maintaining its rich heritage. As he embarks on this journey, the fashion community watches closely, eager to see how his unique perspective will shape the future of this iconic brand.

In conclusion, Glenn Martens’ debut at Maison Margiela not only reinvigorated interest in the brand but also redefined the conversation around contemporary fashion. With his innovative approach and the support of the industry’s luminaries, Martens has set the stage for what promises to be a transformative era in fashion.