Giorgio Armani Misses Paris Couture Show Ahead of 91st Birthday

PARIS (AP) — The Paris couture scene experienced an undeniable absence this week as Giorgio Armani, the iconic designer behind the Armani Privé label, did not attend his own fashion show for the first time in two decades. Days before his 91st birthday, Armani monitored the presentation remotely from his home after a recent hospitalization, marking a poignant moment in the history of his renowned fashion house.

The show, themed "Seductive Black," showcased an array of garments that highlighted the color black in various textures—from liquid velvet to lacquered silk, embellished with pavé crystals and hints of gold. The models’ makeup echoed the collection's dark palette, leading some attendees to speculate whether this choice was a message from the maestro himself.

This absence comes on the heels of another significant moment: Armani recently missed Milan Fashion Week, a first in the brand's storied history. Following a brief stay in the hospital, the decision was made to prioritize his health and conserve energy for the Paris show.

Armani, often referred to as “Re Giorgio” or King George in Italy, has been a defining force within the fashion industry for nearly half a century, holding the singular distinction of being the sole shareholder of his company amidst a landscape increasingly dominated by conglomerates like LVMH and Kering. The Armani Group reported revenues of $2.5 billion in 2024, with the designer’s personal fortune estimated between $11–13 billion.

The collection featured a blend of elegance and avant-garde design, with elements such as tuxedo jackets morphing into evening gowns, tailored blazers worn sans shirts, and military-inspired jackets paired with slim-fitting velvet trousers. The monochromatic theme was occasionally punctuated with vibrant embroidery and colorful feathers, providing relief from the overarching dark aesthetic.

Armani's recent absences have raised concerns throughout the fashion community, particularly as he has shaped his collections personally and meticulously for decades. This latest presentation, while a showcase of his enduring vision, also served as a reminder of the realities of aging and the potential need for a gradual withdrawal from the spotlight.

As the show concluded, the final bow belonged to the models, yet Armani's unwavering influence permeated the atmosphere, symbolizing both a personal and professional legacy that continues to resonate within the industry. The collection, while perhaps a reflection of a more somber mood, also stood as a testament to the designer's indelible mark on fashion, one that remains vibrant even in his absence.

Thomas Adamson is a foreign reporter based in Paris for The Associated Press, covering European politics, culture, and style.