Shelley Subawalla: Preserving Parsi Culinary Heritage in Delhi

In the bustling city of Delhi, where diverse cultures converge, one woman is on a mission to keep the culinary traditions of the Parsi community alive. Shelley Subawalla, a member of this dwindling community, has founded a spice business named Zarin’s Secrets, where she handcrafts and sells traditional Parsi spice mixes from her home. This initiative not only serves as a business venture but also as a cultural preservation effort aimed at ensuring that the unique flavors and recipes of Parsi cuisine continue to thrive.

According to Subawalla, who began this venture in 2015, each spice mix she sells comes with a recipe, making it accessible for anyone, regardless of their culinary background, to recreate iconic Parsi dishes such as Dhansak—an aromatic dish made with meat, lentils, and vegetables. "For every spice mix that I sell, I give a recipe on how to make the dish. It helps me keep our community’s traditions alive," she explains.

Subawalla's business gained traction after members of her community began to reach out, sharing their heirloom recipes and expressing interest in preserving their culinary heritage. Today, her product line has expanded to include 80 different items, ranging from powdered spice mixes to pickles, reflecting the rich diversity of Parsi culinary traditions.

"The food is actually quite similar to several other Indian cuisines. It is just the proportion you mix that makes it distinct," Subawalla notes, aiming to demystify Parsi cuisine, which is often seen as exotic. She emphasizes the importance of cultural context in food preparation, explaining that traditional dishes like Dhansak carry significant meaning and are linked to the community's values and customs.

The Parsi population in Delhi has significantly dwindled over the years, with the Delhi Parsi Anjuman's 2023 directory listing only 470 individuals in the city. Many of these individuals are elderly and face mobility challenges, leading to a disconnect from their culinary roots. Subawalla's spice mixes provide a means of connection, allowing the older generation to experience their heritage through food.

"The youngsters are not interested in ancient traditions or recipes as they are busy with their professional commitments. They always look for something that can be made quickly. So I like to keep the traditions alive for them with ready spice mixes," Subawalla states, highlighting a challenge many traditional communities face in modern urban settings.

The significance of food in preserving cultural identity cannot be overstated. As noted by Dr. Anjali Mehta, a cultural anthropologist at the University of Delhi, "Food is a means of cultural expression and identity. When communities become smaller, their culinary practices risk being lost. Initiatives like Subawalla's are crucial in sustaining these traditions."

While Subawalla’s business is a small-scale operation, its implications are profound. It serves as a reminder of the importance of cultural heritage and the role of food in maintaining connections to one’s roots. "As long as people love food and love to experiment, there is hope," she concludes, embodying the spirit of resilience found within her community.

In conclusion, Shelley Subawalla's efforts not only aim to preserve Parsi culinary traditions but also foster a broader understanding and appreciation of this unique culture within a rapidly modernizing world. As the Parsi community in Delhi continues to shrink, the flavors and recipes that Subawalla champions may serve as a vital link to their past, ensuring that their heritage is not forgotten but rather embraced by future generations.