Study Reveals Risks of Gel Manicure Lamps: Skin Damage and Aging

In a groundbreaking study published in the *Chemical Research in Toxicology*, researchers have unveiled alarming findings regarding the use of ultraviolet (UV) lamps in gel manicures, revealing that these devices can cause significant skin damage, leading to premature aging and oxidative stress. The study, conducted by Dr. María Laura Dántola, a photochemist at the Institute of Theoretical and Applied Physical-Chemical Research (INIFTA), part of Argentina’s National Scientific and Technical Research Council (CONICET), examined the effects of common salon lamps on skin molecules.

Historically, gel manicures have gained immense popularity for their convenience and durability, often fitting within the tight schedules of modern life. However, the potential risks associated with repeated exposure to UV light have not been fully addressed. Dr. Dántola's team simulated a typical gel manicure session, exposing skin molecules such as tyrosinase to the radiation emitted by these lamps for four minutes—the standard duration for curing gel polish. Their findings indicated that these exposures led to chemical alterations in skin molecules that are pivotal for protecting the skin from damage.

According to Dr. Dántola, "These devices are used without any controls or regulations requiring manufacturers to report on the potential risks of frequent exposure." The study highlights that tyrosinase, an enzyme crucial for melanin production, was significantly affected. Melanin plays a vital role in protecting skin from UV radiation; thus, its impairment increases the risk of photo-aging and skin cancers.

The UV lamps utilized in salons emit radiation within the range of 368–400 nanometers, a spectrum known to contribute to tanning and skin wrinkling. A separate study from the United States in 2023 corroborated these findings, reporting that prolonged exposure could result in the death of up to 70 percent of cultured human skin cells and induce permanent mutations in surviving cells. This raises concerns about cumulative exposure, especially for clients who frequent salons every two to three weeks, potentially accruing over three and a half hours of high-intensity UV exposure annually.

Dr. Dántola's research underscores the phenomenon of photosensitization, where skin molecules absorb light energy and release reactive species that can inflict cellular damage. The study also noted that individuals using over-the-counter skincare products that enhance photosensitivity, such as retinoids, may be at an even greater risk due to increased light-reactive compounds in their skin.

Dermatologists from the American Academy of Dermatology recommend that clients apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher on their hands before undergoing gel manicures. Additionally, they suggest opting for LED lamps, which cure polish more quickly and emit lower levels of UV radiation. The use of protective gloves that shield all but the nail plate can reduce exposure to harmful rays by over 90 percent, yet these precautions remain largely optional in many salons.

As the gel manicure industry continues to thrive—projected to reach nearly $12 billion by 2034—experts argue that regulatory measures are necessary. Currently, there are no binding standards for consumer nail lamps, placing the onus of safety on both users and salon technicians. Dr. Dántola advocates for clearer labeling and the introduction of barrier gloves to help consumers make informed decisions about their beauty routines while understanding the associated risks.

The implications of this research extend beyond individual beauty practices; they call for a reevaluation of industry standards and consumer protection regulations, emphasizing the need for further studies to explore the long-term effects of UV exposure from manicure lamps. As the beauty industry evolves, it is crucial to balance the allure of convenience with the necessity of safety, ensuring that beauty does not come at the expense of health.